Thursday, March 08, 2007

Absurd Texts of American History (VII, a)

I now begin a series based upon the excellently entertaining new book by Alice L. McLean, Cooking in America, 1840-1945, published by Greenwood Press, presents recipes and other food relating writings from our past. Some of this is truly frightening.

The first is from Harriet Ross Colquitt's 1933 cookbook, The Savannah Cook Book. The recipe:

Possum and Taters

"While it is generally conceded that the fun lies more in the chase of the elusive coon than in the eating [given that this is from the South in the 1930s, I'm not entirely sure this isn't a lynching textbook], there are those who hold that possum and 'taters is a most delectable diet, so here is the prescription for cooking your game after you have bagged it.

Before you go to bed that night scald the possum with lye and scrape off the hair. (Or have it done, which would be altogether more pleasant all around.) Dress whole, leaving on head and tail. Rub well with salt and put in a cool place overnight.

When ready to cook, put in a deep pan with one quart of water, place three or four slices of breakfast bacon reverently across the breast, and put in the oven. When half done, remove from oven and stuff with a dressing made of bread crumbs, a little onion, salt and pepper and possum juice taken from the panin which he has been reposing. Return him to pan, and place around him some small peeled sweet potatoes, and bake all until a light brown, basting frequently with the gravy."